We disembark the train, and walk towards the cheese dairy and the bakery at the large village square. Distinctive mountain peaks and swallows darting through the deep blue sky are reflected in the windows of the Palazzo-style houses and we’re reminded of a piazza in old Milan. A mountain biker rings his bell and waves up at the hotel terrace. Tired yet in high spirits from a long day hiking along the national park’s Lais da Macun trail, we sit down to enjoy a drink with a cheerful group of tradespeople, farmers, locals and tourists. Although just 213 people live in Lavin, it boasts rich cultural traditions and many innovative thinkers. The village’s reconstruction after the great fire of 1869 brought with it various Italian influences – not only in terms of architecture, but also Italian traits such as lust for life and cosmopolitanism. Italianità Engiadinaisa: that’s Lavin.