On the other side of the rugged Clemgia gorge, 13 kilometres away from Scuol, we dive into the rocky mountain landscape of S-charl. Edelweiss covers the mountain peaks of Mot Madlain, the site of a former lead and silver mine, while the Mining and Bear Museum at the entrance to the Medieval mining village tells stories from a bygone era. We follow the impressive bellowing of rutting stags in the national park’s Val Mingèr and return to S-charl enchanted as twilight falls across the landscape. At dinner we enjoy a selection of the best Engadin specialities and look forward to the rest of our holiday, which will include visits to the God da Tamangur pine forest, the cows of the Alpine meadows, and countless mountain passes on our way to the Ofen Pass, Val Müstair and Sesvenna. Everyday life seems like a distant memory.